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Got motor back in frame, with issues

2K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  jeepwm69 
#1 ·
Got the motor put back in the frame last week....with issues.


First, it won't go into gear. Obviously when I put the back cover on, I put something in a bind, so I'm either going to pull the whole motor back out or try to pull the rear cover with it in the frame. That's undecided at the moment, but either way, once I get it off, get whatever the issue is fixed, how much force is required to shift into D or R? I'm going to make sure it will shift this time before I button the rear end back up. The shift drum turned easily before I put the rear cover on, but I didn't try changing gears with the actual splined shift shaft until after I got the thing set in the frame. NUTS.


Second, when I tried to start it, it barrrrrely wants to turn over. At first I thought it might be out of time. Interestingly enough, if I cover the intake with my hand it spins over normally, and will start and run fine if I even partially cover the intake. Could this be a tight intake valve? I ground the valves and put in new seals, but haven't set them to spec yet. I wanted to make sure the thing would start and run before I took the time to adjust them.


Also have an oil leak up front. It was getting dark when I got to the cranking point, so I couldn't tell where it was coming from. Appeared to be up around the shift valves. Depending on what I find, I might pull the whole thing back out of the frame.
 
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#2 ·
What year is the Rincon? Up to 2005 is a carb model 2006 and up is fuel injected.
 
#3 ·
Also you should never try to start any new or rebuilt engine without adjusting the valves first. For that manor all adjustments should be made before starting. That would include timing, both ignition and cam.
 
#4 ·
He's working with a 2006 680
 
#6 ·
How can you possibly know if the motor will run if you don't adjust the valves. Adjusting the valves is basic setup before you try to start.
 
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#8 ·
Well obviously I'm still learning. LOL.


I turned it over on the bench, using the crankshaft bolt.


I'm not sure what you mean by "static adjustments", but would like to know for future reference.


I never owned an ATV until 2009, and never did more than an oil change on one till about 5 years ago. I've fixed a lot of them, and I have screwed some stuff up while working on them that I had to go back and redo, but it's not the end of the world if I don't get something right the first time. Just costs me time and effort, and I learn how to NOT do it the next time.


I appreciate the "help", could do without the big side of condescension. I'm not a mechanic by trade. I wrench as a hobby, and do so in my backyard. I fix other people's crap, and do so without charging them a dime. I came here for help, because while the basics are the same, every model is a little different, and only one of my friends rides a Rincon, so I've never worked on one before.


I've never had a head with tight valves after a rebuild. They've always been loose. I will adjust the valves on this machine to spec, put the new battery on it, and see what it does.
 
#9 ·
If you had the head rebuilt, the valves will surely be too tight being a solid lifter engine. When valves and seats are reconditioned (stone ground or machine cut) quite a bit of material is removed from both causing the valve to sink and stem height to increase. That increase will remove preset valve lash and most likely hold valves off seat. Static adjustments are settings that NEED to be verified BEFORE starting or risk engine damage. Valve lash, cam and ignition timing, etc.
 
#11 ·
Makes sense, especially given that I recently purchased a tool to disassemble the valves and used some grinding compound on them to clean the seats up. We don't have a machine shop here anymore. I live in the boonies so if I want head or cylinder work done I have to send it off. I normally use J and G for cylinders, but had to send this Rincon cylinder to a Honda dealership where I order my parts.

Thanks Rick excellent explanation as usual.

Jeep, it always helps if you allow a bit of back ground, like your not sure, your new to the quad, your not a mechanic....and ask away... when you post such as you did, you get these kind of replies. I was sincere when I said "Wow" because I have seen good mechanics blow stuff up because of shortcuts, lack of "particular"knowledge etc. (as in this case) We all learn, and grow. Share knowledge and progress. The Rincon is like no other. You are learning that.

You may want to remove that motor and start again, observe a few "rules" and get er done.

The manual can and will guide you through the complete process. It is an excellent tool.

I started with an 06 Foreman that I bought to fix up. After carb and new top end I discovered a bad crank. I ended up tearing the whole thing down using the internet and forums like this one, and got it running. As soon as that happened all my friends and family started dropping their Hondas off wanting me to fix them. The Foreman/Rancher motors are pretty simple, and I can run through one pretty quickly, but I've learned some pitfalls like timing 180 degrees out, clutch one way bearing in backwards, don't reuse circlips on the wrist pin (that one cost me a bit, but was luckily on one of mine), along with a few other lessons.


I'm laid up with the flu at the moment, so probably won't get back into this before the weekend. I do appreciate the help. I like to see how things work, and most of the time through trial and error I can figure it out, but a little direction is always nice.
 
#10 ·
Thanks Rick excellent explanation as usual.

Jeep, it always helps if you allow a bit of back ground, like your not sure, your new to the quad, your not a mechanic....and ask away... when you post such as you did, you get these kind of replies. I was sincere when I said "Wow" because I have seen good mechanics blow stuff up because of shortcuts, lack of "particular"knowledge etc. (as in this case) We all learn, and grow. Share knowledge and progress. The Rincon is like no other. You are learning that.

You may want to remove that motor and start again, observe a few "rules" and get er done.

The manual can and will guide you through the complete process. It is an excellent tool.
 
#12 ·
Got rear cover off, shift fork unbound, and got everything together.

Adjusted valves, new battery, cranked right up.

Shifted into reverse and would move, but display showed --, and no reverse light. Shift cable adjustment maybe?

Shifted into D or 1 and pulled great, but when I went to shift into 2nd the rear wheels almost locked up. It felt like something is dragging. Did same in 3rd.

I found this post that describes the exact same issue, and sort of the solution.

Can anyone here tell me what specifically causes and fixed this problem?

I'd like to know the why as well as the how.

I replaced all the o rings on the oil pump, but didn't disassemble the clutch next to the torque converter. Are there just the two orings there?

Can the front cover come off by standing bike on rear rack like I've done with my Foremans and Ranchers?
 
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