xxLoganxx

Hey guys,

I'm at my wits end with the front brakes on my 06 Rincon. I hit a nasty clay hole last week and it ate up pads almost instantly on the ride home. Got my self some new pads and installed today. Rear, no problem... changed pads cleaned up everything and bled them. Rear tires will lock up like they are supposed to when fully engaged.

Front brakes different story. I had air in the lines when I started to bleed them. So I bled and bled and bled. Brake level started to feel "normal". Put everything back together, started here up got out of my garage.. Absolutely no pressure. Like the brake lever was for show and not even hooked up to anything.. kind of no pressure. WTF? Back in the garage, repeat the entire process... lever starts to feel normal. I spin the hub by hand.. sure as **** all pressure is gone?? I'm stumped!

Took off calipers again. Sprayed everything with brake cleaner and blew dry with compressed air. Slowly applied brakes. Pistons come out on both sides and there are no signs of leaks at the calipers. I can push in the pistons by hand and watch the other on the other side extract. Same on opposite side. Put it all back together and again, bled brakes... brake lever feels normal.. spin hub... no pressure 0%!!?!@?

I checked the "T" and all other places where there could be leaks from the Master to the calipers. Didn't see anything. If I'm not mistaken there would not be any visible signs of defect is the Master Cylinder is gone right? Doesn't the brake fluid pass through some seals internally making it bad? I'm hoping I just need to rebuild the Master cause the whole wheel spinning thing has thrown me for a loop! Any ideas??

cjk

is one of the rotors bent?

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06 rincon, 12" ss112 wheels 26 xtr tire, heated grips,reverse override, full aluminum products skids, 60' cycle country plow, high lifter front springs, 2"lift,maddog rear bag

her ride: 06 rancher 400a/t, 12"itp type-7 wheels, 25" xtr's, full aluminum skids, uni filter and jetted, heated grips

2004 dodge ram 1500 yeah its got a HEMI

xxLoganxx

Definitely not bent, probably not even warped but I will go check right now. That would explain the extended retraction of the piston, but why no pressure when lever is applied again?? That's where I am lost? What's your thoughts? Also, forgot to mention that right before I changed the pads I noticed that I would have to "pump" my front brakes to get them to engage. Could that be another possible sign of the Master Cylinder going bad?

cjk... check this out real quick. I got some major play in my front wheels.. is that normal? Could it be part of the problem? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RiA6-...ature=youtu.be

RinTim

I would check your wheel bearings, you shouldn't have that much play in your wheels.

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2007 Rincon 680 camo, 25" ITP Mudlite XTR tires,Maxxis 4x4 alum wheels, Warn Winch, ATV-Guru front bumper, rear bumper,& receiver/hitch,PRM skid & Bash plate, 60" cycle country plow, UNI filter, AP Stick guards, Tamarack Titan front box, HL temp gauge, TM2 spring pregressors, warn aux lights, Koplin Saw Press II.

xxLoganxx

Thanks RinTim... I kinda thought the same thing. Rear wheels barely move. Gonna dig into it next weekend. Any suggestions on replacement bearings? are the eBay aftermarket decent or should I stick with Honda OEM?

Harley Dog

The wheel bearings should be checked and replaced if need be, but that should have no effect with no brake fluid pressure. I would be willing to bet your Master Cylinder has gone bad. If it was one of the calipers you would see a leak. That is not true with a bad Master Cylinder, the pressure is just going past the internal seals and does not leak out.

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2005 Green Rincon, Dynotek Ignition, Dynotek HP Coil, HMF Utility Exhaust, K&N Air Filter with Outerwear, DynoJet Spring and Needle, Keihin Jets 162 Main, 52 Pilot ,TPI Valves, 2500 Super Winch, Warn Front Bumper, ATV-GURU Rear Bumper, HighLifter Front Springs, A\P Belly Plate\w front and rear Stick Gaurds, ITP Wheels, Bighorn 25 inch Tires, AIPP Headlight Bulbs, Temp Gauge, Modified A\F Screw, Tiny Tach, Rear Hitch, ATV Guru Front Tow Hook, Stainless Steel 17-4 Tie Rods

cjk

it looks like you may need to bleed the brakes a little better but your problem is that your brearings are shot and the the rotors witch are mounted to the hub that ride on them bearings is wobiling and pushing the pistions in the calipers back in and causing you to have to pump the breaks. hope this helps

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06 rincon, 12" ss112 wheels 26 xtr tire, heated grips,reverse override, full aluminum products skids, 60' cycle country plow, high lifter front springs, 2"lift,maddog rear bag

her ride: 06 rancher 400a/t, 12"itp type-7 wheels, 25" xtr's, full aluminum skids, uni filter and jetted, heated grips

2004 dodge ram 1500 yeah its got a HEMI

xxLoganxx

Thanks guys. Looks like I might need bearings and a Master Cylinder rebuild kit. I'll take pics of what I find but it won't be until next weekend. Any suggestions and type/brand of bearing if need be replaced? Thanks for all your help.

lucky9ptkiller

I agree it looks like you need new bearings up front. However, before you tear your master cyclinder apart try bleeding your front brakes again. I had the same problem on my 05 where the lever bottomed out. Somewhere in the forum I found a post where vice grips were used to isolate each side of the front brakes while bleeding. Make sure you use the vice grips only over the shielded brake lines to avoid damaging them. You get a perfect bleed when you are only purgin fluid from the right or left. It worked perfectly for me. Good luck!

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2005 TRX650FA- Vision wheels with 26" executioners, uni air cleaner, bumper, new powder coat, camo vinyl

cwest150

I have had my master cylinder go out before and it did this exact same thing. Also, I have changed my bearings many a times, unfortunately. I have always heard you are better off to stick with the Pivot Works wheel bearings. For riding in mud and water you want to have a sealed bearing, but so far this is the best I have found. You should also check your a-arm bushings while you are working on it. I have had to replace everyone of mine front and rear and it is a job, but definitely helps make the ride better. As much wobble as it shows in your video, I would guess your bushings in your a-arms are worn some as well. Good luck!!!

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2005 Honda Rincon 650 w/GPS, 3600 miles, Warn front bumper, 2” snorkel, 26” Swamp Lites, Ramsey 3000lb wireless synthetic rope, (ATV-GURU rear bumper, hitch, and tow hook), K&N Intake w/outerwear, Kehien jet kit 160/52, clipped carb spring, Supertrapp ISDX Exhaust, ATV Alarm, Dynatek CDI/Coil.

2006 F-350 King Ranch w/SCT X3 custom tuned by Quick Trick's Auto, Edge Insight Monitor, AFE Intake, MBRP Exhaust, 45gal aux. fuel tank, 6 clear strobes, tons of red led’s, and 33" Nitto DuraGrapplers