Some Thoughts on Carb Cleaning - Honda Rincon Forum : RinconRiders Honda Rincon Forums
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post #1 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-26-2017, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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Some Thoughts on Carb Cleaning

According to everything I have ever learned here are some guide lines on Carb Cleaning.
Completely disassemble the carb. Make sure to remove and separate all plastic and rubber parts. Place all metal parts in a good carb cleaner and let them soak. I have found over night is best. Rinse all the metal parts in hot water. This may vary according to which carb cleaner you use, follow their instructions. Use compressed air to blow out all orifices and the carb in general. Make sure you look through all the jets and make sure they are clear. If they are not clear try dropping them in rapidly boiling water for 10 minutes or so. Blow them out again and inspect. If some are still not clean replace them. I do not recommend using any wire or drill bits to clear them. That can damage them. Inspect all the plastic and rubber parts and clean them with a soft brush and hot soap and water or replace them as needed. Rinse and dry them. Put the carb back together making sure everything is adjusted. Install the carb and make final adjustments.


As a side note if the engine will not idle except with the choke out you have a clogged idle circuit. If the engine idles at high speed you have a vacuum leak. If you can't get full power the slide diaphragm has a hole, is installed wrong or the vacuum circuit that feeds it is clogged.


I hope this helps.
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post #2 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-27-2017, 10:16 PM
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Good write up HD but I disagree with not chasing the jets with something like wire bits or torch tip cleaners (preferred) to clear them. I've yet to find any type of carb cleaner, or any chemical, that will remove varnish, oxidation, or whatever from jets and emulsion tubes on it's own. Especially the most overlooked jets being the pilot and enrichener pickup tube. And, very few remove and clean the pilot much less running a bit/wire through the enrichener pickup tube which is 99% of a cold start problem. Using wire bits is as simple as "trying" each size until it smoothly goes through the jet without binding. Won't hurt a thing and verifies the jet is clear. Something chemicals and air alone can't do. Just my opinion.
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post #3 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 08:13 AM
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Thank you for your advise Rick, it is always appreciated. My wife wont let me near her post n pans to boil carburetors...


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post #4 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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In my opinion wire can scratch the inside of jets and torch bit cleaners are almost like a file. Jets are cheap so I just think it is better to replace them. Of course in a pinch do what ever to get her going and then replace the jets later. I would also think almost everyone has an old pot to use. If not you can use a number 10 tin can. I use Berryman's carb cleaner in the 1 gallon can and find it removes vanish and all deposits pretty well.


I am an old school ASE certified Master Tech and it is just the way I was taught.

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post #5 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 10:57 AM
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You were an auto mechanic HD? Didn't know that. Which area did you get certification?
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post #6 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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As an ASE Automotive Master Tech I was certified in every category.
Engine Repair
Auto Trans/Transaxle
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Suspension and Steering
Brakes
Electrical/Electronic Systems
Heating and Air Conditioning
Engine Performance


Do you want a picture of my certification card?

2005 Green Rincon, Dynotek Ignition, Dynotek HP Coil, HMF Utility Exhaust, K&N Air Filter with Outerwear, DynoJet Spring and Needle, Keihin Jets 162 Main, 52 Pilot ,TPI Valves, 2500 Super Winch, Warn Front Bumper, ATV-GURU Rear Bumper, HighLifter Front Springs, A\P Belly Plate\w front and rear Stick Gaurds, ITP Wheels, Bighorn 25 inch Tires, AIPP Headlight Bulbs, Temp Gauge, Modified A\F Screw, Tiny Tach, Rear Hitch, ATV Guru Front Tow Hook, Stainless Steel 17-4 Tie Rods
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post #7 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Just to be clear I spent 18 years turning wrenches. After that I went to work for Mitchell 1 owned by Snap On Corp. There I was the Sr Coordinating Editor in charge of writing Mechanical Labor Estimating Guides. That is the data base that is used for repair shops to write estimates before repairs are done. In other words when you drive into a shop and need a water pump you would look up by year, make and model and it would tell the shop it would take 1.8 hrs as an example.

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post #8 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 12:02 PM
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"Do you want a picture of my certification card?"


Calm down killer.....Didn't ask to offend you or have you prove anything. I asked simply because I've been on this forum 9 years or so, talked about cars here many times, and don't remember you ever mentioning that. That's all. So, I'm putting together a Ford 428 FE stroker here and maybe I can get your opinion. It's a 4.180" bore, 4.25" stroke, 72cc Edelbrock heads, E-RPM intake with Holley 750, 21cc dished flat top pistons (10.42:1 cr), 1-3/4" primary full length headers with 3" collectors, and it's going in a 66 Galaxie with a built C6 and 3.50 rear. Thinking of going with a hydraulic roller instead of flat tappet so what are your thoughts as far as cam specs? Customer wants it streetable (has power brakes, power steering and a/c) as well as make good power from say 1800 rpm to about 5800. Thoughts?.
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post #9 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-28-2017, 12:49 PM Thread Starter
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A hydraulic roller cam will keep down maintenance compared to a solid roller cam. As far as cam specs I can't give you numbers off the top of my head. I can say that the more you go on lift and duration the higher the idle speed will be. That would take extra effort to determine torque converter stall speed selection and street drivability. A radical cam can increase your idle speed up to 1500 rpm or even more. That creates problems for automatic transmissions. The engines I built in the past that were similar to what you are building I always used a manual transmission which took idle speed and torque converter stall speed out of the mix. So when you select a cam keep these things in consideration. Also are you using a Dyno to determine these specs?

2005 Green Rincon, Dynotek Ignition, Dynotek HP Coil, HMF Utility Exhaust, K&N Air Filter with Outerwear, DynoJet Spring and Needle, Keihin Jets 162 Main, 52 Pilot ,TPI Valves, 2500 Super Winch, Warn Front Bumper, ATV-GURU Rear Bumper, HighLifter Front Springs, A\P Belly Plate\w front and rear Stick Gaurds, ITP Wheels, Bighorn 25 inch Tires, AIPP Headlight Bulbs, Temp Gauge, Modified A\F Screw, Tiny Tach, Rear Hitch, ATV Guru Front Tow Hook, Stainless Steel 17-4 Tie Rods
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post #10 of 42 (permalink) Old 01-29-2017, 07:06 PM
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Interesting. I've always found lobe separation angles, intake centerline setting, and ramp profiles will determine idle characteristics regardless of @ .050 duration and max lift. Static and especially dynamic compression come into play obviously but never considered a higher idle simply due to cam specs alone. Care to elaborate on that? Always looking for input. Forgot to add. Does that just apply to roller cams or flat tappet too? Don't want to make a big mistake on the cam I choose for this engine.
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