Valves - Page 5 - Honda Rincon Forum : RinconRiders Honda Rincon Forums

jrl305 · 02-17-2010, 04:22 PM

I bought a used '07 680 with 77 hours on it and decided to check the valves. The feeler guage was getting trapped on the way out. It would go in and I could move it from side to side but could not get it out. I ended up getting mew adjusting screws and touching up the ends of the valves with #200 wet n dry paper. There was a dark deposit around the edges of the valve stems that was causing the problem. Valves are adjusted now and it runs great. a week later I had to adjust the shift cable (grinding in reverse) and had to pull the tank again. Next time I'll do the trick mentioned here about not having to remove the sender.

ny680 · 02-17-2010, 05:23 PM

Im @ 120 hours on mine and the dealr I boght it from said I should get the valves adjusted..After callin them to make an appt they told me it was gonna be 180 plus parts and I wouldnt be able to get it in for a week and it would be there for a coupl weeks...Called a buddy that just had his done at a smaller shop even closer to me and called them...They will do it for 50-60 and I could bring it in tomm( I called there Yesterday)..and it would be there for 1-2 days..Now I know why no one has been using the local honda dealer for anything...

Corndog · 02-17-2010, 06:14 PM

Make sure the independent knows what they are doing. Or do it free yourself...you will learn a lot by doing it that could get you home one day.

Garman · 07-09-2010, 01:28 PM

Valve Adjustment:
I read all the advise and last weekend we adjusted the vales on two Rincons.

Recap:
Cold engine of course. Taking off all that plastic was not to bad other than the bottom of the gas tank covers on both sides hard to get at.

The biggest probelm you will have is to make sure all that clear plastic pans that sit on top of the engine, carb/fuel injection also those two rubber matts take pictures of where they are located if you do not have an service manual. There is hoses etc that go into a certain place etc. I had to go back and look to see where the matts went and of course had to pul off the gas tank.That real long round clear plastic hose that goes into air box has to be pulled off.

Speaking of gas tank. Take a peace of rubber hose plug off one end than have somebody hold up tank than pull fuel line off than incert plugged hose onto fuel outlet no big deal than sit on floor.

Take out spark plug and side metal plug near pull starter so you can see see the marks than pull starter rope until you see T than confirm that looking into spark plug hole to see piston at the top. All rockers should be able to move then by hand.

Adjusting the valves is easy with a feeler gusge you can bend on the end. My intake vales were a little lose, we losened the lock nut placed the feeler guage on top of valve stem than tighened the scruw until it was tight than backed it off a pinch than tighened the lock nut than check valve clearance again it was perfect.

My buddy took his quad to the dealer and they only charged him $35 to adjust his valves because it took only ahlf hour, it stead of the $70 hourly rate. If I knew I could get the vales adjust for $35 that is money well spent.

It took us an hour for each quad. It sucks but I would do it again.

Does anybody know when the next valve adjustment is due? I adjusted the valves at 100 hours. If 100 is required that's a bunch of crap in my opinion. Any riding at all you could rack up 100 hours pretty easy in one summer.

Garman

**Ultratec** · 07-09-2010, 01:39 PM

The first inspection of the valve clearance was recommended at 20 hours or 100 miles.. After that its called for at every 100 hours or 600 miles. Some never check it, some follow Mr Hondas recommendations, some go longer or shorter. I think the first inspection is the most important, after that its a personal preference thing IMO.

Corndog · 07-09-2010, 02:05 PM

I agree with ultra. The first check at 100 miles is critical in case the head bolts relax and your valve clearance goes away. If the valves do not seat you can burn a valve seat easily. From then on the clearance should loosen.

What I did is check at 100 mi. Then again at 2500 mi, recording the change. Mine was so close to spec at 2500 mi I did not reset them. Then I checked again at 5000 mi or so, at which point my intake was a little tight and exhaust a little loose. I recorded the change and reset them then.

I checked the intakes only around 7000 mi because all you need to do to check them is remove the seat and rear cover. Somewhere around 10,000 I plan to pull all the plastic and recheck both ex an in valves again. A well maintained and unabused rincon will not have much valve clearance change. If they constantly need adjusting...something is wrong somewhere.

P.S. - I have done a bunch of valves...no friggin way to do it in 30 minutes unless you only check the intakes. Some...not all mechanics just listen for valve clicking and ride the bike to see if the power and compression seem normal then charge you for adjusting. I would not use the mechanic again.

Rickgto · 07-09-2010, 03:38 PM

Keep in mind valve recession and stretch CD. Even though the Rincon has hardened seats, excessive heat/sustained high rpm will dictate shorter intervals between valve lash checking/adjustment. Agreed the first is the "must do" at low hours/miles simply because the parts are seating to each other. But after that it's really more of a how it's used rather than a specified miles or hours. Normal wear will loosen them over time and like you say, if they're loosening constantly there's a problem. Cam going south, lifter, rocker arm, whatever. But recession and stretch will tighten the lash and do damage to seats as well as valves. Guess my tooktoolongtosay point is the guys that mud (heat) need to pay attention to lash twofold over normal trailriders.

Garman · 07-11-2010, 12:15 PM

Good Stuff Guy's:
My Rincon had 146 hours on the second valve adjustment and intake & exhaust were both perfect.

My other Rincon Had 111 hours and the intake vcalves were just a pinch open.

I suspected 1/2 hour was a bunch or crap for any mechanic to do the job right.
It still took two of us an hour to do the second quad with no valve adjustment.
The biggest pain was taking off the gas tank plugging the fuel line. replacing all that white plastic crap and the two matts were a pain trying to make sure it all went back with the hoses etc back where they belong.

100 Hours 3rd valve adjustment or 600 miles no way, we drive close to 100 miles every time we go riding, we very well could end-up checking the valves 3 times during the regular riding season. Honda should of had an hydrollic valve adjuster system for this motor? But I suspect the way the motor was made that might not be possible? I'm not an engine engineer.

Garman

EARTHMOVER · 02-04-2012, 06:47 AM

I'm adjusting the valves for the first time. I'm doing every thing just like what is written but the valve noise sounds worse then before or dose it just sound that way because there is no plastics & tank on the bike

02-17-2010, 05:23 PM	#42 (permalink)
ny680 Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Gloversville Posts: 125	Im @ 120 hours on mine and the dealr I boght it from said I should get the valves adjusted..After callin them to make an appt they told me it was gonna be 180 plus parts and I wouldnt be able to get it in for a week and it would be there for a coupl weeks...Called a buddy that just had his done at a smaller shop even closer to me and called them...They will do it for 50-60 and I could bring it in tomm( I called there Yesterday)..and it would be there for 1-2 days..Now I know why no one has been using the local honda dealer for anything... __________________ 2008 White Rincon Warn 2.5 53" Moose plow Powermadd Hand Guards 27" Executioners 2" Exhaust tip _______________________________________________

02-17-2010, 06:14 PM	#43 (permalink)
Corndog Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Elk Creek Posts: 6,972	Make sure the independent knows what they are doing. Or do it free yourself...you will learn a lot by doing it that could get you home one day. __________________ 2003 green Rinny (10,500 miles), "25" Bighorn Radials (white letters out) full of extra slime, water pump mod, no warning labels, E Trex, everything else like Mr. Honda made it. 2000 XR 400r (est 3,500 miles). RIDE RED EVEN IF ITS GOT GREEN PLASTIC! 2002 Harley Davidson Road King Police (43,000 miles), 2007 Suzuki VStrom DL1000 (60,000 miles), 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 (303,000 miles) on tight and original motor. 2001 4Runner (73,000 miles).

07-09-2010, 01:28 PM	#44 (permalink)
Garman Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Elwell Posts: 79	Valve Adjustment: I read all the advise and last weekend we adjusted the vales on two Rincons. Recap: Cold engine of course. Taking off all that plastic was not to bad other than the bottom of the gas tank covers on both sides hard to get at. The biggest probelm you will have is to make sure all that clear plastic pans that sit on top of the engine, carb/fuel injection also those two rubber matts take pictures of where they are located if you do not have an service manual. There is hoses etc that go into a certain place etc. I had to go back and look to see where the matts went and of course had to pul off the gas tank.That real long round clear plastic hose that goes into air box has to be pulled off. Speaking of gas tank. Take a peace of rubber hose plug off one end than have somebody hold up tank than pull fuel line off than incert plugged hose onto fuel outlet no big deal than sit on floor. Take out spark plug and side metal plug near pull starter so you can see see the marks than pull starter rope until you see T than confirm that looking into spark plug hole to see piston at the top. All rockers should be able to move then by hand. Adjusting the valves is easy with a feeler gusge you can bend on the end. My intake vales were a little lose, we losened the lock nut placed the feeler guage on top of valve stem than tighened the scruw until it was tight than backed it off a pinch than tighened the lock nut than check valve clearance again it was perfect. My buddy took his quad to the dealer and they only charged him $35 to adjust his valves because it took only ahlf hour, it stead of the $70 hourly rate. If I knew I could get the vales adjust for $35 that is money well spent. It took us an hour for each quad. It sucks but I would do it again. Does anybody know when the next valve adjustment is due? I adjusted the valves at 100 hours. If 100 is required that's a bunch of crap in my opinion. Any riding at all you could rack up 100 hours pretty easy in one summer. Garman __________________ Be a leader in life, a person who goes out and makes it happen! A follower is a person who will always settle for less by driving all those belt drive quads. It's either gears or tears on the trail.

07-09-2010, 01:39 PM	#45 (permalink)
Ultratec Administrator Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Long Island NY Posts: 11,403	The first inspection of the valve clearance was recommended at 20 hours or 100 miles.. After that its called for at every 100 hours or 600 miles. Some never check it, some follow Mr Hondas recommendations, some go longer or shorter. I think the first inspection is the most important, after that its a personal preference thing IMO. __________________ 100% Wild, 100% Fair Chase! Take a Child Hunting When Cobras Attack

07-09-2010, 02:05 PM	#46 (permalink)
Corndog Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Elk Creek Posts: 6,972	I agree with ultra. The first check at 100 miles is critical in case the head bolts relax and your valve clearance goes away. If the valves do not seat you can burn a valve seat easily. From then on the clearance should loosen. What I did is check at 100 mi. Then again at 2500 mi, recording the change. Mine was so close to spec at 2500 mi I did not reset them. Then I checked again at 5000 mi or so, at which point my intake was a little tight and exhaust a little loose. I recorded the change and reset them then. I checked the intakes only around 7000 mi because all you need to do to check them is remove the seat and rear cover. Somewhere around 10,000 I plan to pull all the plastic and recheck both ex an in valves again. A well maintained and unabused rincon will not have much valve clearance change. If they constantly need adjusting...something is wrong somewhere. P.S. - I have done a bunch of valves...no friggin way to do it in 30 minutes unless you only check the intakes. Some...not all mechanics just listen for valve clicking and ride the bike to see if the power and compression seem normal then charge you for adjusting. I would not use the mechanic again. __________________ 2003 green Rinny (10,500 miles), "25" Bighorn Radials (white letters out) full of extra slime, water pump mod, no warning labels, E Trex, everything else like Mr. Honda made it. 2000 XR 400r (est 3,500 miles). RIDE RED EVEN IF ITS GOT GREEN PLASTIC! 2002 Harley Davidson Road King Police (43,000 miles), 2007 Suzuki VStrom DL1000 (60,000 miles), 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 (303,000 miles) on tight and original motor. 2001 4Runner (73,000 miles).

02-17-2010, 04:22 PM	#41 (permalink)
jrl305 Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Charleston Posts: 10	I bought a used '07 680 with 77 hours on it and decided to check the valves. The feeler guage was getting trapped on the way out. It would go in and I could move it from side to side but could not get it out. I ended up getting mew adjusting screws and touching up the ends of the valves with #200 wet n dry paper. There was a dark deposit around the edges of the valve stems that was causing the problem. Valves are adjusted now and it runs great. a week later I had to adjust the shift cable (grinding in reverse) and had to pull the tank again. Next time I'll do the trick mentioned here about not having to remove the sender.

07-09-2010, 03:38 PM	#47 (permalink)
Rickgto Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Wonder Lake Posts: 3,926	Keep in mind valve recession and stretch CD. Even though the Rincon has hardened seats, excessive heat/sustained high rpm will dictate shorter intervals between valve lash checking/adjustment. Agreed the first is the "must do" at low hours/miles simply because the parts are seating to each other. But after that it's really more of a how it's used rather than a specified miles or hours. Normal wear will loosen them over time and like you say, if they're loosening constantly there's a problem. Cam going south, lifter, rocker arm, whatever. But recession and stretch will tighten the lash and do damage to seats as well as valves. Guess my tooktoolongtosay point is the guys that mud (heat) need to pay attention to lash twofold over normal trailriders. __________________ Ward, don't you think you're being a little rough on the Beaver?

07-11-2010, 12:15 PM	#48 (permalink)
Garman Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Elwell Posts: 79	Good Stuff Guy's: My Rincon had 146 hours on the second valve adjustment and intake & exhaust were both perfect. My other Rincon Had 111 hours and the intake vcalves were just a pinch open. I suspected 1/2 hour was a bunch or crap for any mechanic to do the job right. It still took two of us an hour to do the second quad with no valve adjustment. The biggest pain was taking off the gas tank plugging the fuel line. replacing all that white plastic crap and the two matts were a pain trying to make sure it all went back with the hoses etc back where they belong. 100 Hours 3rd valve adjustment or 600 miles no way, we drive close to 100 miles every time we go riding, we very well could end-up checking the valves 3 times during the regular riding season. Honda should of had an hydrollic valve adjuster system for this motor? But I suspect the way the motor was made that might not be possible? I'm not an engine engineer. Garman __________________ Be a leader in life, a person who goes out and makes it happen! A follower is a person who will always settle for less by driving all those belt drive quads. It's either gears or tears on the trail.

02-04-2012, 06:47 AM	#49 (permalink)
EARTHMOVER Member Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Ayr Posts: 54	I'm adjusting the valves for the first time. I'm doing every thing just like what is written but the valve noise sounds worse then before or dose it just sound that way because there is no plastics & tank on the bike __________________ If It's Got Wheels I'll Drive It

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