Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Elk Creek, Kentucky
Thank you for the response and replies. I'm just wondering, if/when I change this pair of parts, LINK, RR. STABILIZER 52320-HN8-003 would you guys suggest changing the other parts/bushes at the same time or, do it as required? The part number listed are a straight swap I take it?
You really do not need to take anything apart to do the stabilizer link(s) except unbolting two nuts and RandR the link. As for other stuff, you should be jerking and tugging on each wheel after almost any hard ride. Grab wheel at 3-9 and 6-12 (clock position) and see where there is play. When a wheel has play or clunks, then its time to start looking for what is loose and worn. Its good to start doing this early in your rincons life, so you get a feel for normal areas of play. So lets say you find a bad ball joint, look at the other sides BJ, to see if its the same.
Personally, I replace most things as they wear out and not before. If I had a shop doing my work I might replace some things preemptively (hope that makes sense to you).
The only things I routinely grease are the shock bushings (top and bottom) and the a arm bushings. I did a tutorial(s) on these services in the past, but you will need to find it. My tutorial was done on my 2003 rincon, that has the forged aluminum suspension parts, the newer ones have steel parts and may have a different procedure in some places.
2003 green Rinny (12,400 miles), "25" Bighorn Radials (white letters out) full of extra slime, water pump mod, no warning labels, E Trex, everything else like Mr. Honda made it. 2000 XR 400r (est 3,500 miles). RIDE RED EVEN IF ITS GOT GREEN PLASTIC!
2013 Yamaha Super Te'ne're' (27,400 miles in 22 months), 1996 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 (392,000 miles) on tight and original motor. 2001 4Runner (82,000 miles).