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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a MT elk hunt coming up and have a good running stock 2005 650 Rincon. We are going to be running them up to 6-10K feet. I'm currently at about 900'. I tore this thing apart this spring for a new timing chain, tensioner and oil pump chain along with re-setting the timing so I'm fairly capable. The more I look at it, it looks pretty easy to swap out the needle, and main jet. There are a few discussions on this topic, but most are 10-15 years ago.

Was reading that I should be running a DJ 136 with the dynojet kit, at 6k and up.

Looking at the carb I'm assuming when everyone is talking about the fuel/air mixutre screw, that's the PILOT screw right? Can I just use a screwdriver, or do I need to buy/make a tool. I have a machine shop, so no big deal ether way.

Looks like with the DJ kit, you have a few new parts the needle on top of the carb, then the main on the bottom near the float. When changing the main, you can just screw that out from the bottom and put the new one in without a bunch of extra removal of parts.

I'm also open to a less expensive kit because I will only be using this once a year maybe for a couple weeks, and don't really need the entire kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also The manual says 1/2 turn in on pilot screw up to 8K? I am going to run out of power at and above if I try this. Don't want to be stuck with it up there. Also I see they make remote pilot screw knobs, might be worth the extra $10 vs buying a tool so I can adjust on the go?
 

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Get the screwdriver or make one (all it is is a 90 degree angled tip that rotates...see image below) as it is hot and difficult on the hands and arm to adjust with a tiny driver.
HighColorado+9k

has done this... he rides near heaven a lot, and has it set up well. Might want to PM him.

Circuit component Cylinder Gas Engineering Electric blue
 

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spitfire_er
You seem to be a pretty capable fellow. I will add my 2 cents.
Living here in Colorado with higher altitudes and owning carbed motors can be a challenge.

Neighbor has two Rincon's. One carbed, one injected. Both stock. The carbed one runs fine unless he takes it to high. It will blubber or bog down having a way to rich of a fuel mixture.
He doesn't remove the air box lid or try to improve it in any way.
When he goes to higher areas he uses the injected one. Around here the elevation varies from 8500 to 10 K. So his stock carbed machine does well overall around here.

My 03 isn't stock. I adopted a car muffler to it to get rid of a loud after market muffler that was on it when I bought it. My point is this car muffler may not be as restrictive as a stock muffler. I also have adjustable air valves on the air box lid. Available here Total Performance Intake - Thunder Products Carburetion Performance % %

I put a new OEM carb on mine recently. I put a Honda OEM 148 main jet in the carb. I believe the service manual says to use this jet for high altitude. It runs good even at the higher elevations where my neighbors machine has problems.

If I were you I would keep it simple being it's limited use at high altitude. Put a 148 main jet in it. Removing the air box cover may help when you ride up high. I think the only issue is you can give it more air by removing the air box cover but the stock muffler may restrict the extra air flow out the exhaust. Maybe take some duct tape. Remove the air box cover to start. Adjust air intake by covering the air box with the duct tape a little at a time.

I will add this. In My Opinion. You are better off running the fuel mixture rich than lean. Lean conditions can cause overheating. It may blubber at higher altitude's like my neighbors but not overheat.

It may get the job done leaving the carb alone and adjusting the air box.

The only way you're going to know is try it where you will be hunting.

Any questions, I will try to help.
 

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I have a MT elk hunt coming up and have a good running stock 2005 650 Rincon. We are going to be running them up to 6-10K feet. I'm currently at about 900'. I tore this thing apart this spring for a new timing chain, tensioner and oil pump chain along with re-setting the timing so I'm fairly capable. The more I look at it, it looks pretty easy to swap out the needle, and main jet. There are a few discussions on this topic, but most are 10-15 years ago.

Was reading that I should be running a DJ 136 with the dynojet kit, at 6k and up.

Looking at the carb I'm assuming when everyone is talking about the fuel/air mixutre screw, that's the PILOT screw right? Can I just use a screwdriver, or do I need to buy/make a tool. I have a machine shop, so no big deal ether way.

Looks like with the DJ kit, you have a few new parts the needle on top of the carb, then the main on the bottom near the float. When changing the main, you can just screw that out from the bottom and put the new one in without a bunch of extra removal of parts.

I'm also open to a less expensive kit because I will only be using this once a year maybe for a couple weeks, and don't really need the entire kit.
I have a stock 2003. I turned the pilot screw in 1/2 turn and it ran fine between 5,000 and 11,000 feet. I would try that first.

Tom H.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info from everyone so far. I thought about just turning the pilot screw 1/2 turn and trying, but I don't want to be stuck with a machine that isn't useful. I may just order new jets to make sure so I can lean towards the safe side. any other help is appreciated as well.
 
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