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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This guy is great to deal with and will negotiate pricing !
 

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i got the stainelss steel 1 my self, so what price did you negotiate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
...let's just say that if you negotiate you will in most cases always get a better price especially if paying straight $$$$!
 

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the stainless one points to the rear the aluminum one points at your fenders.
For $10 less, give me stainless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is my only concern with the aluminum, but I don't think it actually points at the fenders but I will let you know once I have it installed. The stainless does not come with a spark arrester which is another $20 to buy..the aluminum does. Plus a got a GREAT deal as this guy negotiated with me the other guy didn't.
 

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I don't think the aluminum tip is 2", it is actually only 1 5/8". If you are looking for more performance the 2" ss is the way to go(not to mention my friend sells the 2" ss tip on e-bay so I'm a little bias).
 

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I bought the 2" stainless elbow for $6.00, cut the flange at work, and tig welded it. Seems like there might be quite a bit of room for price negotiation there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How does 2" become 1 5/8 ?? And if that's the case would you really notice that big of a performance difference over 3/8" of an inch???

RossB let's see some of your pics.
 

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I made mine out of 2" aluminum electrical conduit bent about 70 deg. and welded to an aluminum flange that I turned at home. I bologna sliced the end to exit straight out the rear and polished the whole thing to a nice satin finish.Total cost $5.00 to have a friend weld it up.
 
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