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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, new to this forum here, and hoping to get some help diagnosing my Rincon.
Its a 2003 650 that I just bought. The seller told me it had just recently started grinding when shifting from neutral to forward or reverse, so I bought it knowing it would need some work. First thing I did was trying to turn the idle down some but that didn’t seem to help. I removed the shift cable from the stud where it comes out of the transmission and used vice grips on it to shift, so I could rule out problems with the shift lever and cable. Still grinding. I did notice that right at start up it hardly grinds, but the engine idles lower before it warms up. Once warmed up it idles a bit higher and the grinding gets worse. So I turned the idle down even more, almost to the point of the engine stalling and bow the grinding is almost gone.... BUT, another issue I’ve noticed is that when in gear it wants to creep forward a bit at idle (same in reverse) even with the idle so low. I don’t know if this is normal for a Rincon or not. To me it seems as if the torque converter is engaging, or partially so at lower rpms than it should, causing the grinding, and creeping forward at idle. Any ideas here or suggestions on what to further diagnose? Thanks!
 

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I would start with an oil and filter change on a new/used machine. Make sure you use the correct oil.
 

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I am sure the final shift gear is on its way out. Will need one sooner than latter. Idle is not real high, seems like 850rpm +/- 50. But been a while since I tunned one.

Should be a post here about BRGR, final shift gear is right there where you get to to do the BRGR. If not yry google Yellow Dog Performance, BRGR, should pop up on you tube

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

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Idle is way to low, 1400 +/- 50. Shift firmly from neutral, making sure the wheels have stopped before you shift. Grinding can be the final shift gear. When cold you would not have proper oil pressure to operate the clutches, so shifting when cold and less grind makes sense. If your going to restrict speed (BRGR) then you will probably find the issue as you replace the parts for that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’ve got what I need to change the oil and filter. Just haven’t had time to do it. I’m out of town for a week but I’ll update once I do that.

Two of you have mentioned the final final shift gear going out. Would that also explain why it wants to drive forward even at a low idle? I know in cars if it’s in gear at an idle it will move forward, but in my somewhat limited experience the fourwheelers I’ve driven before won’t move forward in gear until given some throttle.

Not really planning to do any gearing changes as I’m not going to be doing any hard riding on it, just wanted something to get around the property. If it’s cheap to do and is worth it for my use I might consider it. How involved is the work to replace the shift gear and maybe install BRGR? I have a decent amount of auto mechanic experience and a good friend that used to do a lot of ATV work so I’m not afraid to dive into something like that. Not planning to take it to a shop to have work done one it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’m back. Didn’t have time to mess with it all summer and it just sat in the back of my shed. Over the last few weeks if messed with it some and here is what I discovered.
At idle, it would creep forward in all three gears. I tested the linear solenoid valve and it seemed to be working. Also tested that it was being given power when it should. Put a tachometer on it, and it is idling at 11-1200 once warmed up.
Changed the oil and filter today with Honda GN4. No change in operation.

Finally I took another look at the emergency bypass valve. I had been confused about what position was on and off. Turns out the bypass valve had been activated this whole time. Here’s the odd part: it still shifted through the gears instead of being locked into 2 like it should. But once in a while when I started it up, (maybe 25% of the time) it would be locked in second gear and the gear indicator and 4wd light would flash constantly. For the most part tho, all the gears worked with the bypass activated.
Turned the bypass off. NO CHANGE. Drove it for a bit, and suddenly it’s no longer creeping at idle AT ALL. Almost seemed like something had just been stuck in that position and got worked loose. But then after driving some and turning it off and on several times, it started creeping again. Drove some more and the problem went away and appears to be resolved for good.

Once it was no longer creeping in gear, I felt like it had some startup shock when I give it throttle. I’m sure a bit is normal, and I was not used to it since mine was just always trying to go. But it felt excessive. Adjusted the TPS. It was way off. Was reading 700 ohms at idle but I got it where it should be at 500. That seemed to help. Still has a bit of shock when starting but I think it may be a normal amount.

It still grinds when trying to put it in gear, although maybe not quite as bad. I’m guessing the final shift gear is just really messed up from all the grinding it’s been doing. I have the new updated one, and plan to replace it as soon as I can. Hopefully that will fully resolve my issues.
 
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