[Atvboy]

Well after taking it all apart I had the top needle installed in only a few minutes. Then after taking almost everything off including plastic and airbox etc.. to flip the carb over I could only get 3 of the four screws on the bottom out. The top ones were tough but these bottom ones were even tougher.

I got three of them but the fourth one was stripping bad so I left it be and put it all back together. Don't know how to get the last screw out and why they use these soft screws so tight is beyond me.

Anyway after getting it all back together and starting it I only rode a few minutes but the hestitation is now gone when you first apply the throttle. Also is there anyway to get anymore of the plastic lock like tabs? I had to break one to get the air intake off right under the gas tank. Carb wouldn't turn over with it on.

I'll try more Today but it did help even though I couldn't get the main jet in. Also my throttle felt stiffer I may have messed up adjustment when trying to twist the carb upside down or is this normal after installing the new needle?

 

[parkgt]

Should not feel stiffer. Did you take the idle adjustment cable out of the clip that holds it? Use a pair of needle nose vice grips to remove your stripped screw. Go to an industrial bolt supplier, you can get better bolts there for less or even allen heads.

 

[comtnman]

http://www.hondapartsworld.com/ for the body clips.

parkgt is correct the throttle should not be any stiffer.

YellowRincon650 has a good set of instructions on his site to follow, I know you have gotten the carb out once, maybe reading his method might give you an insight to getting things fixed up.

http://www.yellow650rincon.vzz.net/tech.html

post back if you run into more problems.

If I ever pull my carb out again it is going back together with stainless steel socket head cap screws.

 

[Atvboy]

Yeah I took the ddjustment knob out of the clip so the carb would turn over. I'll try some of these suggestions to get the one screw out.

I also re-adjusted the idle and have everything set good now. The bike starts easier and idles better now.

If I get the rest of the kit in I will be happy.
I am going to a Honda dealer right now to get an oil filter and trailor hitch for the Rincon.

Thanks guys.

 

[Atvboy]

Well I went to the Honda dealer and got a new oil filter and some more plastic body clips and a trailor hitch. After I got back I opened up the Rinny some more and its defintley got more bottom end now with top end down about 2-3 miles per hour.

As I was playing in a field I noticed something, the Rinny wanted to wheelie! I said, Let me see, sure enough if I tug on the bars up she comes. It still takes a really hard pull to get it up while WOT but its an improvement.

I am gonna try and get the remaining screw broken loose now and get the Main jet installed. Also I had a bit of a scare. After returning from a rather bumpy ride I turned on the switch and the LCD lit up and then went out. I tried turning it back on over and over and no luck. Finally it returned to life only for a moment. A quick inspection of the battery revealed a loose postive terminal cable. Not real loose but some so I tightend it back up. Hope this solves the probelm. It re-set the clock and also the tripometer.

Oh, I bought the oil not at the Honda dealer but at Wal-Mart. I got 15w40 Rottela T. Its all the Rottella they had and others have recommended this oil highly.

I bought a gallon for six something and Plan to change the oil at 100 miles. The bike has 70 right now.

 

[comtnman]

Here is a link to a thread about oil, The short answer is use Rotella T synthetic 5W40.

http://rincon.atvowners.com/index.cfm?action=thread&catid=26&topid=147&thrid=5114


I just went through the same problem with the batery cable last weekend.

 

[Atvboy]

All they have where I live is the Rotella T 15w40. I couldn't find any oil that weight here. I could have gotten the Honda oil at the dealership but just bought the Rotella at Wally WOrld.

This is Rotella T but not sure if its is synthetic or not. I am gonna try it out and see how it works. I don't know if I want to use a syth oil this soon anyway but I am going with this.

 

[hondaman]

Atv, try tapping on the end of the screwdriver with a hammer while holding it down tightly AND twisting it. I have had good success freeing up stubborn screws this way.

 

[WoodsRuner]

ATVBoy, if the Rotella T isn't in a blue jug DON'T use it in our Rinny.
I just bought two more gallons at Wally World yesterday and the were $12.84
and 5W-40, not 15W-40. Sounds like you got a blend if you only paid $6.
Look on the back of the jug. There is a little API symbol there. If it says
"Energy Conserving" in that symbol, DO NOT put it in your Rinny. It will
ruin the centrifugal clutch. Save it for your car/truck, and get the blue jug
for the quad.

BTW, the blue jug Rotella is on a different isle in our Walmart than the regular 15W-40.

 

[Atvboy]

I don't see anything on the back about energy conserving. Its in a white jug with a blue front.

 

[WoodsRuner]

Here are some pics. Note in the API symbol the bottom half of the circle is blank.
If it is the kind you don't want to use, it will say Energy Conserving in the bottom half-circle.

 

[WoodsRuner]

lower 1/2 circle is what counts. Blank means it is ok for quads.

 

[Atvboy]

Mine is exactley like that except it is 15W-40 and is not synthetic. On the back it has the same symbol as above except it says CI-4/SL instead of CH-4/SL as above.

The bottom half of the circle is blank just like yours.

I'll check the rotella website to make sure but I think that is the only differences.

It might be better to use this for the first 100 mile oil change and then for the second service switch to the Rottella Synthetic.

Thanks woodsman.

 

[Atvboy]

I just checked the Rotella website and mine is the Rotella T MULTIGRADE Oil.

Check their products page for details on all the different types of oil they manufacture. The eneregy conserving kind must be the SINGLEGRADE type listed there.

Check it out but I think this will be ok in the Rincon for the first service.

 

[WoodsRuner]

It will be fine.

The energy conserving is made in all grades. I have some 5W-30 and 10W40
for cars, and 20W-50 for trucks, and straight 30W that says energy conserving on
the label. You can't tell unless you look at the API symbol. Energy conserving means it has friction reducers in it, like powdered zinc. Not good for our wet clutches LOL.

 

[Atvboy]

It took the Rincon apart again and this time used a chisel and a hammer to remove the one screw. I replaced the Main stock jet with the 144 Dyno Jet. I noticed no difference between the stock main jet and the dyno main jet.

It pulls the same as before.

It is getting stronger though with more miles.

 

[WoodsRuner]

try the 146 and the 148 too.

 

[Jays0n]

Give your Rinny some time, with no mods mine started to pull quite a bit more around the 175 mile mark. Your engine isn't even broken in yet. Put some miles on it with the jets the way they are and then make changes, be very careful not to run it too lean, especially during break in!

 

[Atvboy]

Well I just got back from another outing and now have 92 miles. It is stronger but the jetting must now be off.

I noticed now it is starting to sputter on the bottom end again. Also when trying to wheelie and you come to complete stop, then nail the gas for WOT to wheelie it dies like a kill switch.

Also now if you put it in nutreul and open all the way up it sounds good until it hits top end then it sputters terrible and cuts out real bad.

I am gonna change the oil now and put another main jet in the carb and re-adjust that again.

 

[Atvboy]

I just checked the plug guys and its a little white looking. I guess its running to lean.

What would suggest I try now with the main jets?