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Discussion Starter #1
Why this made me apprehensive to do I'll never know. I have spun wrenches for 55 years.
I'm beginning to think I would rather not deal with things anymore that I'm not familiar with.

We'll I dove into removing the CCT to do a rewind of the spring.
Didn't start out well. The gasket tore in half. Half on the motor, the other half on the CCT.
Didn't have a new gasket. Repaired it with high temp silicone. Time will tell.

Followed Corndogs method.
Tensioner out 3 turns.
After having it in my hand I had to take it apart to see how it worked.
It was clean and not worn. Moved freely.

Reassembly tried my patience.
The tool would have been a lot easier.
Hope you can follow this.
If you have had one apart you should get it.

I pre-wound the spring 3 turns without the follower rod (it's threaded on one end) in the housing. You have to hold the assembly, minus the follower rod together in the housing.
Then I put the follower rod on top of the threaded piece and wound it until the tensioner rod was retracted all the way.
4 turns making 7 turns total.
I think this adds 3 turns.

Corndog you're input would be appreciated on the turns.

Put it in the bike with the tensioner retracted and started it. Cold start. Noisy as hell. Shut it off immediately.
Turned the tensioner by hand both ways with a screw driver.
The last turn to add tension, CCW I believe.

Re-started it and it was quiet.

So I don't get it.
Was the tensioner stuck?

:)
 

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You did it a little different, but it should work. The way it works requires the right spring tension in the ratchet. The one way ratchet is not really a positive locking mechanism if this makes sense. My opinion is the stock spring should be wound tighter from the beginning.


On mine, I did not let it come apart when I added turns to the spring. Mine was 3 turns out when I last removed it. I added 3 full 360 additional turns with the key, then slid plunger back in, put clip back on. The spring you are winding has a bunch of coils, but they are thin.


Did it feel tight when you wound it? You are just adding back what has unwound from the spring due to plunger extension.


As for the gasket, I am OCD and would get a new OEM one when convenient.


The CCT should not stick. This is sign of either crap in it or the ratchet is too worn. I test them by pushing plunger all the way in. Let it ease out under spring tension a little at a time. Then try to compress it. It should always lock preventing the plunger from retracting, then as you ease off the plunger the spring should let it smoothly extend again. It should lock/unlock/and extend smoothly at all plunger travel.


If it is running quiet, I would be happy with it. You will know soon enough if it is sticking.


Tricky little devil to take apart and put back together.
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Corndog,
Thanks for the reply.

I thoroughly checked this thing out. It never bound up in my hand.
I'll run it for a while and see.

The one thing about the design is the plunger travel is limited. The plunger has a lip that catches on the piece with the 3 tabs that goes into the body.
So the plunger when fully extended can no longer put tension on the chain no matter the spring tension. This design is what stops the plunger from coming out of the body when fully extended.

Hope this makes sense.
I set out to take pictures but got involved and with oily hands didn't do it.

:)
 

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What you are saying makes sense to me. But the issue is not plunger travel really. It is the fact that the CCT may or may not look correctly with insufficient spring tension. When the plunger is all the way out (4 turns) it is probably time to put a new timing chain and guides in the engine.
 

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Thanks again Corndog.
I have a service manual.
You have done this so:
How big of a job is it to replace the chain and guides?

:)

Oilcan has done this on his. Mine is original and have not had to replace one yet. I have done it on motorcycles and it is not too bad.
 
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