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2007 rincon 680
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there is a million posts on adjusting valves but this was odd to me.

When I opened everything up to check I couldn’t get a feeler in between ether intake or exhaust at all. Got right down there with lights and bent the tip of my feeler, nothing.

double checked position. Same
Triple checked, even used a tig filler rod in the cylinder to watch it rise and fall. I was right where I supposed to be.
When I loosened the valves I could even see the springs decompress.
Why? Why so tight? This must have been the factory settings as the bike only had 700km on it!

If having valves a little tight can cause damage what could having Your springs compressed do?
It left me worried for sure. Motor is a little more loud now (not obnoxious just noticeable) like most note.
Did a nice technical trail run, good 4or 5 hours. Everything ran fine.
Should I recheck now after a run?
Bikes a 2007 680

thanks, Dave
 

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Watching the piston is not good enough. Read below as I am thinking you adjusted the valves incorrectly .

Posted by another member:
A manual will give you confidence, and I highly suggest you use one. I assume you can remove the plastic ok. Here are the tough parts you must get right.1) exhaust is in front and intake at rear of head 2)To adjust a tappet you loosen the outer lock nut and turn the inner screw adjuster in or out to get clearance correct. When you tighten locknut back up check that adjuster did not move on you 3) you must have the motor at top dead center (tdc) on compression stroke. To do this you remove the nickle sized cover from the right side of engine case that allows you to see timing marks. Pull the rope very slowly until you see the "T" mark, as you get close the motor will try to spin past it, if it does keep pulling rope till you see the mark again. You must be at TDC to adjust valves. When at TDC the valves should have some play, if not turn motor crank 1 revolution and reset mark and look for clearance again 4) when adjusted I usually pull the rope and spin the crank around 1 or 2 times then reset TDC and recheck the valve clearance. Check manual for clearances.

I use plain old flat feeler gauges but ones that are bent at the tip are easier. The feeler gauge should have slight drag when you insert it between rocker arm and valve stem. When removing plastic it is not necessary to disconnect fuel gauge wires which is a bitch. I just take the tank and carefully go under the right side of handle bars and sit it on the front rack still connected. Sometimes its easier to remove the spark plug when you set TDC but I'm lazy and just leave it in. Lastly, you may want to go ahead and buy the O rings to replace the ones (2) under the valve covers.

You also want to do this w/ a cool engine, not hot




I made this tool to adjust the valves. I took a 10mm deep socket and welded a handle on it. A screw driver slides through it so you can tighten the lock nut and hold the adjustment screw in place at the same time. It works great.

Tool Household hardware Nickel Plumbing Plumbing fitting
Font Pattern Parallel Number Monochrome
 

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So what is going on if you go all the way around and no gap or no play in the rockers? I have the T in the window. I have tried the T on each revolution. How do you tell if timing chain has jumped? Like I said in my other post the bike starts and idles great. Just die when you give it throttle. Hope I can get this figured out. Or we....sorry about posting again in this thread but we are experiencing similarities.

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hey Oilcan, I get your response as many don’t have experience, I defer to your experience as you obviously have it.

when I did it the first time I didn’t just check it and run. When I found them so tight I rechecked as I was convinced I missedTDC also.

So TDC is on compression stroke
Next is power stroke, meaning valves don’t move.
I’d pull the cord and watch the cyl drop and the valves stay closed.

How I would find TDC would be to spin the motor till I saw the intake valves open, then watch the hole for ‘T’ as mine loved to be tight coming up and was easy to spin by fast.

Anyways I wanted to recheck after a good ride and with another one coming up. This weekend I opened her back up yesterday since it was a rain day from work.
Exhaust was a little snug 12 thou, intake a little loose (as my feelers only went to 8thou, so I miked a piece of plastic and used that) I’ve got a nice set of Mitutoyo’s now that I got with a bunch of machinist stuff I bought.

so reset rechecked retorqued.
Going Back together today after I pull my recoil off again and probably pull 5lbs of dried mud out, as the cord is laying on the ground unretracted.
 

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Hey Oilcan, I get your response as many don’t have experience, I defer to your experience as you obviously have it.

when I did it the first time I didn’t just check it and run. When I found them so tight I rechecked as I was convinced I missedTDC also.

So TDC is on compression stroke
Next is power stroke, meaning valves don’t move.
I’d pull the cord and watch the cyl drop and the valves stay closed.

How I would find TDC would be to spin the motor till I saw the intake valves open, then watch the hole for ‘T’ as mine loved to be tight coming up and was easy to spin by fast.

Anyways I wanted to recheck after a good ride and with another one coming up. This weekend I opened her back up yesterday since it was a rain day from work.
Exhaust was a little snug 12 thou, intake a little loose (as my feelers only went to 8thou, so I miked a piece of plastic and used that) I’ve got a nice set of Mitutoyo’s now that I got with a bunch of machinist stuff I bought.

so reset rechecked retorqued.
Going Back together today after I pull my recoil off again and probably pull 5lbs of dried mud out, as the cord is laying on the ground unretracted.

read below
Font Parallel Rectangle Pattern Paper product
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok spell it out for me as I’m not understanding.
You think I was 360° out and still am??
 

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I have given you every bit of reference to point you to the correct procedure and method. Read it a couple times! The last post is "how to confirm" you are correctly timed and the rockers are not on the high side of the lobes when you try to adjust them, where I suspect they were when you exclaimed they were so tight! You can find this all in a service manual, where you may learn a lot more......
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I’ve read it in the service manual. That’s why I outlined how I found TDC.
you think the bike would run perfectly for a 4-5 hour hard trail run if it was adjusted at the wrong spot?
 

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I’ve read it in the service manual. That’s why I outlined how I found TDC.
you think the bike would run perfectly for a 4-5 hour hard trail run if it was adjusted at the wrong spot?
Until the cam is worn down, yep

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If I may,
I think what they are trying to say is if you're valves are tight when you check them something is wrong. They are trying to help with the procedure of adjusting the valves. Properly adjusted the valve lash wouldn't change after a 5 hour ride. On top dead center the rocker arms can be wiggled slightly. They are just loose enough to be wiggled when adjusted right. 6 or13 thousandths isn't a lot.
Just for fun,
Back in the 70's I had a built small block Chevy 350 with TRW solid lifters for higher RPMs. That was a job lashing valves on a V8.
If the valves are to tight you will wear the cam lobes down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I get what the Guy are saying, it’s my first quad but not my first time wrenching. i know my 350 chev cyl #1 at top of stroke the distributor better be pointing at that front right cyl or your 180° out

Working on these tiny things has me missing crawling into the engine bay of my big old suburban where you could actually see abs reach nearly everything! I’m a big guy and was thinking of cruzing the back pages for an Asian escort with small hands to reach all these little bolts!

30 minutes and I’ll do what ever you want.
ok hunny here’s a 10mm reach in there!

I don’t know now what I did 6 weeks ago now.
But does what I just did seem wrong?

spin to T
Pull -intake opens
Pull slow until T comes back around =TDC
Adjust valves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Was chatting About this with a buddy who’s got more years on the end of a wrench then I, building dodge drag cars before I was walking and a fellow square body Chevy brother.

Told him my procedure trying to figure where I went wrong and he found the flaw in my logic

Old timers. I tell ya!
When I loosened the valves and noticed how “tight” they were I must have been on the wrong spot, but then rechecked, and got it right
Rechecking twice after adjusting

I’d just convinced myself I had it the first time, I must have spun past it with out realizing. Confirmation bias I guess lol.

Any one take off the recoil can you put a socket on the crank to spin with a bit more control? If there is a nut there, I never looked when I had it off.
Thanks for the direction boys.
Now to deal with the water from my run on the weekend.
 

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"Any one take off the recoil can you put a socket on the crank to spin with a bit more control? If there is a nut there, I never looked when I had it off.
Thanks for the direction boys.
Now to deal with the water from my run on the weekend.
With the plug out, using the recoil rope is all you need.
 

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Glad you got it figured out.
Like I said before, on top dead center you can wiggle the rocker arms. The rockers arms are just loose enough to move a little.
 
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