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Ultra did an excellent write up. Thats bs they won't tell you the specs. For an 07 it is .006 on the intake and .013 on the exhaust. Not sure about the difference in an 03. The intakes will be on rear (where the air comes in from the airbox)and the exhaust will be on the front (out the pipe). Here is a picture of the timing mark.
 

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I read a couple of older post and it looks like the 03 specs are the same. Hopefully someone will chime in who knows for sure.
 

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Finding TDC was alot easier for me once I put a 18" socket extension down the spark plug hole..TDC obviously is when the piston is on top at the power stroke, with the extension you can see the piston rise and then watch for the 'T', once there the rocker arms can be wiggled..if not your one stroke rotation away from TDC.
 

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2003 specs are the same....(.006/.013).

The intakes are at the rear by the carb. The exhaust valves are at the front by the well...exhaust.Be sure to set valves at TDC correctly.

If you are loose well fine..adjust.
If you are tight (more than .002).....adjust. Then recheck in 600 miles max, mayber sooner. If tight again, you better watch the valve in question and expect to possibly need a valve job. If no clearnce is found at the check...you likely have a burnt valve or seat.

My experience from a dozen or so Rincons is that the exhaust will tighten slightly and the intakes loosen. I have only needed adjusting twice. First at 1500, the second at 5000. I am checking again over the winter at 7500 miles. If you are not seeing any changes the 600 mile honda rec is bullshit...go longer.

Record every clearance check (and the mileage)before you reset so you can see the rate of change.

Finding TDC is much easier with the plug out so you do not fight engine compression. I do not advise putting anything down a piston hole, if the extension "tool" were to cock, you could damage a piston or plug threads. If the crank is at the "T" mark your piston is up and just verify you are on the copression stroke by looking for valve play. Keep in mind though that a valve may have receeded and have no play even at TDC compreesion. If you have a friend, let them walk you through it once.
 

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wow thanks for the help every one! yea my friend said its easy to take the plug out and find TDC and thanks for the valve specs it pisses me off they wont give them to me. but atleast im gonna get it done soon i gotta keep the beast runnin good!!!
 

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I would worry about them being a little to tight and not seating properly, that condition will lead to a burned valve due to lack of heat transfer. The valve gets cooled when it seats by transfering the heat to the head.
 

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Exactly mudbuddy. Thats why Honda wants the valves checked at 100 miles. Many think this is BS, and a way for Honda to make more money. However, a new motor, during break in, often experiences stretching of head bolts and seating in of gaskets. When this occurs the clearance in a soild lifter valve train will decrease and "could" go away. After 100 miles your valves should not be changing much.

Many follow dbleshoks advice but its risky. Loose valves get noisy and wont hurt a motor unless extremely fubbared. A tight valve may or may not cause a loss of power or backfiring but it will burn the valve or more likely seat....just as mudbuddy said.
 

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dang. now mine chatters a bit and i cant wheelie it inless im streched out on the rack? my friends pounded 03 just sitting on it it will wheelie. and idk if its a problem but whats the shift patter for u guys in drive? mine shifts about 15mph then 23mph then to 28ish then it when im hammerin on it decently it hits about 32 drops to second till about 38mph,,, is this normal? sorry but its my first rincon. im used to racing quads
 

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How much drag should be on the feeler gauge when you do this.

i did this to the point there just a very slightest drag but put it back together and the valves were clacking like crazy. i looked on car forums and the guys say err on the tighter side and the gauge should be "sqeeeling" when you pull out.
 

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Kinda hard to explain but I'll try. "just a very slightest drag" is too loose as you found out. If when you are pulling out the feeler gauge it comes out "jerky" (that is it moves and stops rather than sliding out in 1 smooth motion) it is too tight. You want to feel drag but you also want it to slide out smoothly. Hope this helps.
 

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ok i got a question and i know that it is going to sound pretty dumb...but i guess this is the best place to ask..to check for TDC what do you need to be looking at? what i mean is do u have to pull the pullstarter cover off to see the crankshaft? i get all the other stuff as far as looking for the "||" then the "F" then seeing the "T"...so ..anyway..thank you in advance...
 

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@crawlinrinny
i have a foto hier for you... maby makes it easier
 

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So, I adjusted the valves on my 2003 rincon. All went well. Took a bit to find dtc but I did get it right. Engine runs well.
This is at 2900miles and I am not sure when the previous owner did it. Perhaps never.
The exhaust valves were too tight and the intake too loose. ADjusted it properly.
However, when I opened up the ports to adjust the valves, there is a bolt in between the valves. On both sides this bolt was very loose.
What's this bolt for ? I tightened it but not sure why it was loose.
 

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Ultratec......... Can you update the pictures on here...? The photo bucket ones are all blurry.

And..... what kind of clamp did you use to pinch off your fuel line..???
And..... what kind of clamp did you use to pinch off your fuel line..???

Put a rag over the line (so you don't damage it) and use a vise-grip or Hemostat or similar.... you don't want to squeeze it to tight, just enough to stop the flow.
 
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