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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, guys and girls (mostly guys). I've finally finished the operation and I have the how to for all of you. The only thing I don't have yet is pics of the lighting. But I can take that now that it's getting dark. There are 20 something pics. Here we go... Here you see the before pic of the Rinny...sporty, but kind of sleek looking, doesn't match the bike in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Once everything came in, I checked over my order and test fitted the pieces. A few things didn't make sense, but Miner helped with that. I set out to do this. I disassembled the dash.
 

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Once disassembled, I noticed that I had an error in judgement. Last year I allowed a kid I had met to rejet my bike and do some other things for me. The little bastard never told me he busted my meter. I over nighted one...added a few extra parts to be sure I had everything..cost for the meter..$300!
 

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While I waited for the meter to come in, I bought my toggle switch (lower left)and tried to figure out how to hook it up. I decided on a single position, single throw switch with an LED to besure to let me know I had power even if the light went out or shorted. I drilled my holes for the 2 switches (headlight and fan bypass in the middle) on the upper cover and the hole for the 12v outlet on the lower. If you order the Rubicon's dash, you can utilize where the D1/ D2 selector switch goes. I liked the Foremans myself...it was an error that worked to my favor. Note: I've had problems with the switches in these pics and have since order a new cover and two sealed switches with the rubber boots. I will edit this picture later to show my current set up. Only use sealed switches!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Next is really the only part that needed time. I needed a welder to relocate the 3 tabs on the internal bracket that the meter mounts to. I also made a template of where the holes and tabs were and where they needed to be. i just traced around it. The welder was very grateful. He came very close to the original positions. If you or your welder mess up, washers can be used as spacers, but try to get it close. Also, the new dash cover does not need the meter to screw to it. The meter just bolts to the bracket. Also, I would not recommend using a portable band saw or an angle grinder to cut the tabs. It gives no room. Use a Dremmel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I also ordered the riser clamp caps for the Foreman (or rubicon if that's what you order). There is a bracket that needs to bolt to the clamps and our caps do not offer the hole for it. They can be found at bikebandit.com under the handlebar schematic. This pic shows the two new caps and the Rinny's cap in the middle. See the difference??
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Next began reassembly. Once you mount the bracket into place (when you take the old one off, notice how it's on there then it'll make sense.) everything went pretty fast. It took a while to take the pics for you clowns. The lower bracket can be seen connected to the riser caps.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The new meter came in and though I had only 110 miles on my bike, it now reads 0 miles again..any one want to buy a brand new modified Rinny???
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here I assembled everything. I also ran the wires for my switches. The bypass wires had already been run. I started to panic a bit cause the new light had, two wires brown and green, and I wasn't sure which was hot. The answer here is ground the green wire. Oh yea, when you disassemble everything, be sure to remove the ruuber tube that goes into the steering column. This will be replaced with the rubber tube from the parts you ordered. The gas tank breather slides into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Next I ran my power wire to the fuse box and connected it to the main with an inline fuse. I wanted to be able to turn the light on at any time. I don't see where this would mess anything up. But should anything happen, it's got an easy disconnect. It's the smaller, brighter red..the other is for the winch...and you can see my snorkel flex tube also.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
With that being done, I zip tied all my wires, being sure that I had enough room to work on anything in the future. On Miner's original post, it was questioned about if anything rubbed. Here are your answers. No. No. No. The light clears the front cowl with no troubles. The cowl is easily removed. It clears it, so no worries!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Now for the finished pics. I think it looks great. It gains the look of the bulk, which I like from the 14" w/ 27's to the lift and now the headlight.
 
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