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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need some help because I'm not finding many parts for top end rebuild so I am thinking about having cylinder honed and head rebuilt. Also will order new rings and gaskets. Can I get some advice on where or who I can send to for rebuild? I am pretty handy and can do the work, just not good with size of parts I need. I also have service manual. Thanks for the help. Also don't want to buy all new parts due to high cost.

2003 honda rincon 650

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Cylinder is Nikasil coated cylinder. Not a good idea to tamper with... Might look into putting the 680 cylinder and head on it.
Buy your engine parts from Honda. Anything else is junk.

Nikasil is a nickel-plated silica carbide coating that’s applied to the walls of some engine cylinders. Invented by MAHLE nearly 40 years ago, Nikasil reduces friction and wear, especially in aluminum bores. Nikasil liners improve oil retention, but some engine mechanics avoid this high-performance plating material.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cylinder is Nikasil coated cylinder. Not a good idea to tamper with... Might look into putting the 680 cylinder and head on it.
Buy your engine parts from Honda. Anything else is junk.

Nikasil is a nickel-plated silica carbide coating that’s applied to the walls of some engine cylinders. Invented by MAHLE nearly 40 years ago, Nikasil reduces friction and wear, especially in aluminum bores. Nikasil liners improve oil retention, but some engine mechanics avoid this high-performance plating material.
So direct? Thanks for the help. If I open it up and cylinder walls look good can I just replace rings and get another few years? I know not a good idea but this is old and not sure I want to spend a lot of money. Yes honda parts only

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Yes, I did rings, piston (Not required by I'm anal) , chains, guides (Very worn and should be considered) and cam. Such a slow/small loss of power over the years so I didn't really notice how much power I was losing.... Back together it was a Holy crap moment when I gunned it not expecting the new power increase (back to stock ) cost me under 500 (I had over 30K on it then) look at my cylinder walls, like it was recently honed but not. I think these machines have many many more miles in them than they are given credit for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes, I did rings, piston (Not required by I'm anal) , chains, guides (Very worn and should be considered) and cam. Such a slow/small loss of power over the years so I didn't really notice how much power I was losing.... Back together it was a Holy crap moment when I gunned it not expecting the new power increase (back to stock ) cost me under 500 (I had over 30K on it then) look at my cylinder walls, like it was recently honed but not. I think these machines have many many more miles in them than they are given credit for.
Can you do me a big favor and point in the right direction and part numbers for all the parts. Also can you do this on the bike or do I need to drop the engine? Thanks a bunch. Project for myself an Son. Need to keep him busy

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes, I did rings, piston (Not required by I'm anal) , chains, guides (Very worn and should be considered) and cam. Such a slow/small loss of power over the years so I didn't really notice how much power I was losing.... Back together it was a Holy crap moment when I gunned it not expecting the new power increase (back to stock ) cost me under 500 (I had over 30K on it then) look at my cylinder walls, like it was recently honed but not. I think these machines have many many more miles in them than they are given credit for.
So that is a 680 head and cylinder?

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Can you do me a big favor and point in the right direction and part numbers for all the parts. Also can you do this on the bike or do I need to drop the engine? Thanks a bunch. Project for myself an Son. Need to keep him busy

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No it's not a 680 head.

here is a link to a site where you can find any and all parts you need to get the job done.
2003 Honda TRX650FA A OEM Parts, Cheap Cycle Parts

Have a service manual at the ready because there are torque values in it, as well as proper disassembly and reassembly hints and procedures that if followed will increase your chances of doing the job correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks I will check it out. It idles but will die if I give it throttle. I performed a compression check and read almost 150 psi?. Think high compression? Would something cause the engine to die? Starts just fine just dies with throttle. Changed carb and made no difference.
 

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Cam has a decompression device to enable an easier start, and the pull start (And that is a biatch sometimes). 150 is high, I'll double check but think 75/80 is more the norm.
You have a manual yet?
 

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(I had over 30K on it then) look at my cylinder walls, like it was recently honed but not. I think these machines have many many more miles in them than they are given credit for.
THATS YOUR CYLINDER??!
Your 30,000 mile cylinder?
That's unbelievable!

that’s the biggest confidence builder in my bike I’ve ever seen!
 

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THATS YOUR CYLINDER??!
Your 30,000 mile cylinder?
That's unbelievable!

that’s the biggest confidence builder in my bike I’ve ever seen!
30000 kilometers... about 18700 Miles but ... it could have gone easy double that with just rings and cam, but the guides, and chains take a beating... While it's apart get the cheap stuff replaced like O rings in the sub, guides, chains and seals, a good cleaning in the sub trans, and all the oil passages, and it's ready to move you another 30K.
 

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Thanks I will check it out. It idles but will die if I give it throttle. I performed a compression check and read almost 150 psi?. Think high compression? Would something cause the engine to die? Starts just fine just dies with throttle. Changed carb and made no difference.
74 PSI @ 390 RPM


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So could that be the reason it's dies when throttle is applied? Starts and idles fine.

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I have replaced the carb with a new one and experience the same problem. I started it up and let it warm up and while throttling up I sprayed carb cleaner in the carb and it didn't die. Think it's fuel pump? I always thought fuel pumps work or they don't.

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Have a manual yet? Your running out of guesses. Throttle position calibration required, if it's a new carb.. Some have worked out of the box, but it is an adjustment for that very reason.
Take the tank off and clean it all, including the screen at the petcock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok I will download the manual, but I don't understand why it died with original carb and dies with the new one. Idles fine just dies when I give it gas.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I hate when people post a problem but don't come back and report the corrective action. I spent the cash and bought the OEM carb vs the Chinese knock off. Runs much better! Still smokes and will replace rings and valve seals over the winter. Then I am sure I will get more power. I'm sure once I tear into it I will have more questions. Thanks for all the tips. I'm sure cleaning the gas tank and petcock helped!

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It is very common where someone will come on here, make a lot of noise about a fix, get their answers, fix their issue, yet not have the courtesy to come back and post those results for ALL OF US to enhance this forum.....It seems to be a "give me" world where so many don't bother doing the leg work, and complain because we didn't spell it out for them.

If you plan on "goin in deep", then do it all. The sub trans O-rings, replace the chains and guides, rings, and Cam/and it's associated parts. Spec the piston and rod/crank. I'm sure they will be OK. It's 18 years old and who knows how it was serviced prior to you. In Canadian dollars, all that was under $650, (pre covid part price insanity) I'm betting when you start it 1st time after you have done this work you will be pleasantly surprised at what just woke up "between yer legs" :) Good luck. The PDF on a good sized notepad or laptop using Adobe PDF writer will allow you to make notes on the pages as you go through the job. When done, no greasy pages, your notes all available in pristine viewing clarity every time you reference those pages. My last "Clymer" manuals have been recycled. Over the years the grease has rendered some pages unreadable... not the case with your notebook or iPad. :)
 
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