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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just did my first valve adjustment on the Rinny, at 200 miles instead
of 100 like Honda recommends. (I always go double on the valves and 1/2 on the
oil/filter changes from recommended) Here are a few tips for same if any of you do your own.


1. Drain the carb float bowl to get the fuel out of the fuel line so you won't have a gas spill, with the fuel shut off of course. Then drain the tank before removing it. Much easier.

2. Don't try to disconnect the fuel level float connector. You will break it.
Just pull the tank around and sit it on the front rack with wire attached.

3. Take the spark plug out when you set the "T" mark to the reference point.
If you don't you will never get the T lined up right on the money. Put a little
(Very little) neversieze on the plug threads before you put it back in.

4. Bend your feeler gauges 15 degrees before checking the clearance. I used
straight feelers at first, but could never get the valves set just right, always a little to a lot of tapping. After bending I found my last adjustment was .004" to loose. The angle of the valve stems prevents a straight feeler from making an accurate check, as it contacts the head and yields an inaccurate feel.

Now here is something strange. After I did my maintainance today, I took it for a long ride. I lost 3 mph in top end. Oil and filter change, both differentials lube change, valve adjustment, various fluid checks, cleaned air filter, ect. Nothing there should have lowered top end, except maybe the valves. But it shouldn't have, because now they are dead on recommended clearances. Got me!
 

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Woodsrunner were the valves too tight or too loose before you made the adjustment? I have heard several people comment about a slight change in the performace of their quad after a valve adjustment.
 

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I know when I used to adjust the valves on my old Isuzu pickup it wouldn't rev as quickly for a while. The looser setting on the valves allows the engine to run a little quicker but is not that good for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
both intake and exhaust were loose. too much clearance means the valves will not open as much as when tighter. you would think that tightening the gap would improve performance by allowing the valves to open a bit more, but that was not the case.
 

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WoodsRunner, good tips. Sounds almost exactly like what I did. But, I must disagree with draining the tank. No need. Shut the gas OFF on the tank and it will never leak a drop. I also set my tank on the front rack, the connector didn't want to come apart so I didn't screw with it. Didn't drip a bit and shouldn't either. But, if for some reason yours does, it would be a good idea to drain the gas to a clean container (so you can reuse it if you have alot).

As far as the valve adjustment goes, I tightened mine so I could pull the feeler gauges out but couldn't stick them back in. Probably a tiny bit tighter than exact spec, but that's ok (gives them a little more time to loosen up) and it runs absolutely great.

This reminds me, I need to get some valve adjustment instructions up on my page. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yellow650Rincon, I drain my tanks and carb float bowls twice a year anyway(spring and fall), so this time I did it in conjunction with a valve adjustment. Besides, the tank is a great deal easier to handle empty. It's a good idea to drain both periodically, I just do it more frequently than needed maybe. I have had water in my gas before. I always drain the float bowl and the first 1/2 pint of the tank into a glass jar to look for water/dirt. That gets discarded, and the rest saved. Don't know if it really does any good, but it can't hurt. :eek:)

As long as your valves aren't tapping, you are within specs, so it don't matter how you did it. I prefer mine looser rather than tighter.
 
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