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At 50 hours, I just adjusted my valves on the 680 injection, so I thought I would share some of what I learnt with other users. I am a novice mechanic, and some of the stuff in the manual and on the Wiki skips some bits that might be obvious to more experienced users, but maybe not for beginners, so to help those like me, who would like to do it, but maybe feel a bit unsure or nervous, here is what I found;
1. Plastics - start with the little black cap in front of headlight, then the bit around the filler cap, then the little red (or camo, white, etc) bit behind the tank. Then take off the side panels. The little black plugs need to be prised out with a flat head screwdriver or similar.
2. Tank - try to do this job when you are almost out of fuel! It makes the tank lighter and you will probably spill less fuel. Pull vent tube from console. Pull off top fuel tube. Disconnect fuel guage connector. Remove two rubber straps at back of tank. Remove 2 x 8mm bolts on either side of tank. Remove bottom fuel pipe, and as you do so, quickly put your finger over outlet. Remove tank and empty it into a can.
3. Clear plastic air intake - some pictures show this left on, but you get more space to work if it comes off - just loosen the clamp at the airbox, and slide it out. (It is quite long, and bends in the middle).
4. White plastic cover - Might be an idea to take a photo with your phone here, kind of helps make sure you put everything back in it's right place, especially the rubber sheets. Prise out fuel line on left, and cooling line and throttle cable on right. Slide out.
5. Remove the intake and exhaust hole caps. (8mm) Remove crankshaft inspection cap (near pull starter) with an Allen key.
6. Pull starter gently, watching through the hole for the F then the T - go slowly, pull short gentle strokes, and you will get it eventually.
7. Make sure there is some play at all the rocker arms, if so you have found TDC, if not turn again.
8. Measure your gaps. I found my inlet to be a little loose, and the exhaust to be a touch tight. It can be very tricky to be sure that the feeler is going in straight and is not bent. Once I had got my gap to 0.013in on the exhaust side, I tried to slide in the next size feeler up. If it doesn't go in, you're about right. There should be a fair bit of drag on the right size feeler. Tighten nuts, with spanner quite hard whilst holding the screw with a driver. Make a note fo screw position, (eg. 11 o'clock). Torque to 17Nm. Check screw is still at 11 o'clock. Another check is that when the 'right' feeler is in, wiggle the rocker to make sure there is no play at all. Too loose = noisy tapping when engine runs. Too tight = possibility that when the engine gets hot, the rocker does not disconnect from the valve spring and valve stays fractionally open.
9. Replace hole caps. Go easy, I torqued to 10Nm, felt about right.
10. Rebuild in reverse order, nothing tricky here. Don't forget to replace crankshaft inspection cap, or you will have an oily leg!
11. Oh yeah, don't forget to do all this when engine is COLD! (otherwise gaps will be different).
Any proficient mechanics out there, please feel free to correct me if I went wrong anywhere!!
1. Plastics - start with the little black cap in front of headlight, then the bit around the filler cap, then the little red (or camo, white, etc) bit behind the tank. Then take off the side panels. The little black plugs need to be prised out with a flat head screwdriver or similar.
2. Tank - try to do this job when you are almost out of fuel! It makes the tank lighter and you will probably spill less fuel. Pull vent tube from console. Pull off top fuel tube. Disconnect fuel guage connector. Remove two rubber straps at back of tank. Remove 2 x 8mm bolts on either side of tank. Remove bottom fuel pipe, and as you do so, quickly put your finger over outlet. Remove tank and empty it into a can.
3. Clear plastic air intake - some pictures show this left on, but you get more space to work if it comes off - just loosen the clamp at the airbox, and slide it out. (It is quite long, and bends in the middle).
4. White plastic cover - Might be an idea to take a photo with your phone here, kind of helps make sure you put everything back in it's right place, especially the rubber sheets. Prise out fuel line on left, and cooling line and throttle cable on right. Slide out.
5. Remove the intake and exhaust hole caps. (8mm) Remove crankshaft inspection cap (near pull starter) with an Allen key.
6. Pull starter gently, watching through the hole for the F then the T - go slowly, pull short gentle strokes, and you will get it eventually.
7. Make sure there is some play at all the rocker arms, if so you have found TDC, if not turn again.
8. Measure your gaps. I found my inlet to be a little loose, and the exhaust to be a touch tight. It can be very tricky to be sure that the feeler is going in straight and is not bent. Once I had got my gap to 0.013in on the exhaust side, I tried to slide in the next size feeler up. If it doesn't go in, you're about right. There should be a fair bit of drag on the right size feeler. Tighten nuts, with spanner quite hard whilst holding the screw with a driver. Make a note fo screw position, (eg. 11 o'clock). Torque to 17Nm. Check screw is still at 11 o'clock. Another check is that when the 'right' feeler is in, wiggle the rocker to make sure there is no play at all. Too loose = noisy tapping when engine runs. Too tight = possibility that when the engine gets hot, the rocker does not disconnect from the valve spring and valve stays fractionally open.
9. Replace hole caps. Go easy, I torqued to 10Nm, felt about right.
10. Rebuild in reverse order, nothing tricky here. Don't forget to replace crankshaft inspection cap, or you will have an oily leg!
11. Oh yeah, don't forget to do all this when engine is COLD! (otherwise gaps will be different).
Any proficient mechanics out there, please feel free to correct me if I went wrong anywhere!!
