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Yeah releasing the clip on that fuel line was a bugger. Be patient and unbolt the housing first, if you have to, to get better access.

I was a bit hesitant pulling the pump out of the housing, as the O rings had it stuck together pretty well.

Some dialeteic grease or whatever on the O rings helps get it back in. Best practice to avoid using bolts to pull something like that together- too easy to cut O rings.

Once a person has done one, next one would be much faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Oh, while I got an ear.... Removing the gas tank. Is it easier just to remove the 2 bolts (on either side) that go through the metal brackets on the tank with the rubber grommets. OR remove the 2 small bolts on each side, that affix the bracket to the plastic gas tank ?

Seems to me, those smaller bolts may be a b!tch to get lined back up ? Perhaps I'm overthinking it also. lol
 

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I just pull the two long bolts. Having one of those fuel line clampers and some rubber stoppers on hand is handy for when you go to disconnect the feed line to the pump housing.

Edit- like these. The radius on them doesn’t damage hoses, like an ordinary clamp can.

 

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Discussion Starter #25
K, Update.
Replaced the fuel filter, and though it needed replaced, NOT the problem. Sooo, what I DID notice, is when I hit the key (ON), I DO NOT hear the pump itself prime ? What I do hear, is a buzzing or invoking electrical noise up by the fuel injector, NOT the pump itself.

I also have a 500 Recon, so I went over to the Recon and hit the key (ON) and listened. On the Recon, I DO clearly hear the fuel pump engage/invoke. So my suspicion is I may have a bad fuel pump. Which will suck since I already had that apart to replace the filter. LOL

So, if I go back in and pull the pump, can I test it, or have it tested to see if it's good ? If I can do it, how would I go about that ? Thanks.
 

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Without special tools I wonder if you could unhook the line to the injector, slip on a hose into a container, and turn it on?

Mounted on top of the throttle body with 2 tamper resistant torx screws is the idle air controller. That should cycle through its range of motion when they key is turned on.

They have been known to get gummed up. Typically in cold weather you’d see very high idle once warmed up, but I would guess it could also stick too far closed (and Idle slow or not start).
 

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I don’t have any stills but show it at about 2:21 in this video.

 

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Discussion Starter #29
O, so last evening, I actually removed the 2 bolts that mount the Fuel Injector to the body. I got a small container underneath the injector to HOPEFULLY catch any gas that would flow out when I hit the key (ON). I hit the key...… nuttin' LOL. Sooooooo, There's electronic this, and sensor that on these bikes. That said, DOES IT SOUND LIKE A FAULTY PUMP ? I mean, I didn't mind changing out the filter after 13 years of not being changed. But, I don't want to buy more expensive parts as a simple shot in the dark.

Can I pull the pump back out and test it somehow ? Can I pull it, take it to a shop, and have them test it ?
 

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The injector shouldn’t spray unless the engine is cranking.

You might unhook the pressure line (the one with the clips) from the sub-canister the pump lives in, our the end in a container, turn the key on and see if fuel flows.

If not, I think the next thing I’d check would be to confirm voltage and ground are present at the 2 pin connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Gotcha. I thought simply turning the key on invokes the fuel pump, and thus, sends the fuel up to the injector. I still have it off (injector), and connected to the feed line. So maybe I'll turn the key on, crank the engine, and see if I get fuel... while hanging on to the injector inserted in the line of course... as it should be under some pressure. Easier than popping that clip off the fuel canister on the injector feed line for now.

As always. Appreciate the response.
 

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Just be careful. Any time you are messing with uncontained gasoline...
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Ya Jeff. I put a drain hose on the end of the injector, and fed it into a bucket, just by chance I get the gas flow that I've been looking for. NO DICE ! LOL. At this point, I truly believe it's a bad pump. There's nothing coming from the fuel pump container. No noise. No vibration. NUTTIN'. I will first get a test light, and test the plug wire to the pump, to make sure it's getting juice.... then order a pump.

Per Fuel Pump... there's a Caltric fuel pump, that looks exactly like my pump, and is supposedly compatible for my year and model. It is only $28, and the reviews have been good (other than one). I called Honda, and they gave me a price of $135. THAT price may be for the entire pump container, filter, pump itself, etc..... Not sure if I should trust the cheaper route though, and try the Caltric ?
 

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I dunno. Do your test light test first.

Do you have access to a multi meter? Would be interesting to see what kind of ohm reading you get across the pump terminals.

Also, inside the canister the pump motor it’s self connects with slip on terminals...

As far as Honda vs aftermarket, it has been my experience that Honda parts can be expensive but they are always high quality and reliable...
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Soooooooo, per multimeter. Are you saying there may not be enough juice feeding the pump ? In other words, pointing to a problem other than the pump, such as a relay or something ? I mean, if I get juice (light), I was assuming bad pump. So, what should the multimeter read ? What is the range ?

Oh, I checked on CheapCycleParts.com, and they offer an entire assembly also, not JUST THE PUMP, for $115. Soooo, I assume Honda is the entire shebang, including housing, etc.... I mean, all that crap is good, and I just changed the filter to the side mount mod for $35 or so. I JUST NEED A DAMN PUMP ! Lol
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Thanks, but i'm a dumbass at time. So, the Q, do I have to pull the pump out of the unit/cannister ? Or can I just unplug the external connection, and test it from the prongs ?
 

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The first thing I’d do is put a test light across the connector. If it turned out there is no power there, that will take you a different direction.

Meter wise, I meant you could take an
Ohm meter reading across the pump’s terminals while it is unplugged.

I would expect a few ohms to be normal for an electric motor. If you get open circuit (infinite resistance) something is not connected, fused or disconnected. Zero ohms would indicate a short, which may also have caused a fuse to blow.
 

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You could do these tests with the canister in place.

If you find you have power with the test light, and get open circuit reading with the meter,THEN I’d take the pump out of the canister To check the spade terminals, and probably take a reading directly across the motor.

You could also ensure no debris or anything is obstructing flow or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
I know there's no obstruction from gas tank to pump cannister. It flowed freely when I drained tank, and the cannister had plenty of fuel in it. Fairly certain there's no obstruction from pump out either. But popping that damn green clip off (pain in the ass), pulling that hose to injector off, and connecting a test hose to it draining to a bucket, will tell me if pump is kicking fuel.

Like I said, I am not hearing any pump invocation at all. No sound at all when hitting the key, or cranking. So I'm pretty confident it's either the pump, or perhaps a relay that sends juice to the pump ?
 
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