Well. /i pretty much was down to either a bad fuel pump, or bad relay ? Well, the next diagnostic step for me, and last step before ordering a new pump, was to see if I had power to the pump. I confirmed that my light tester was functional, by applying it to areas with known power. Welllll, I tested the pump feed, NO light. I tested the feed that leads to the top of the gas tank also. NO light. I'm not sure if the two connections come from the same place, as I don't have a wiring diagram, and not sure I could follow one if I did ?
Anyhow, it seems the next logical step is to buy a relay to the pump ? I've seen them online, but have no idea where the hell it is on the bike to replace ? Can somebody tell me where to find it ? Thk You.
Oh, also. I tested the power to the connection that is on the Fuel Injector itself. There IS power to the fuel injector. None at the pump though.
ERRRTTTT !!! I failed to realize, that the electrical feed to the pump, can only be tested in that short window from when the key is turned ON, for a couple seconds after. That said, there IS power to the pump.
I'm going to order that $27 pump off of Amazon, and roll the dice. Had some good reviews, and one not so good.
I hear ya Jeff. But I specifically remember reconnecting the 2 feeds to the pump. I even took a pic on my phone of it. lol
When I called Honda, to see if they sell just the pump instead of the entire unit (they don't), the guy in service told me that when you hit the key, you only have a couple seconds to test juice to the pump, as it cycles off. I didn't realize that, thus, my initial diagnosis of no power to the pump was incorrect.
Pump came in from Amazon yesterday. Pulled the can, dropped the pump in, BINGO !
FYI... I got the Caltrec pump that is compatible. It came in and is identical to Honda. It ALSO came with BOTH filters and clips. The old style bottom filter, and the side mod filter. FOR $27. Honda wants to sell the entire unit, canister and all, that of course is rarely ever needed.
Getting into these ATV's and even new model vehicles, makes me long for the days when things were simple, and a common man with just a hint of acumen, could navigate under a hood a bit.
Had a 1974 Ford 250 Highboy. You could open the hood, and actually sit on the fender with your feet hanging inside. Trace the very few wires that were leading to various engine components, etc... diagnose and fix with relative ease. THEN pollution control came along, with emission this, and SENSORS out the wazoo. Nowadays you can't even get your hand in spaces under a modern vehicle hood. I MISS THE OLD DAYS ! lol
Everything was just fine till you swore at me with that ferd word, but yes I understand, one could do the same in a full size blazer, even that dern ol Bronco was a great place to have a beer n wrench. For the cover install order, put your fenders on 1st, then the tank wrap, then the little cover by the seat front then the top black part. It just hooks into the wrap (tank side covers). Some of the bolts are shouldered, they usually go into the rack (corners at the back) and kind of "suspend" the fenders off it. Easy stuff now...I see a wheelie in your future!
oh and, here's a "Not So Pro Tip" since I'm no pro. BUT, after screwing around trying to seat the pump holder, with the large O-Ring into the canister the first time, when I changed the filter mod, I was fumbling for 1/2 hour and it was just rocking and pinching the O-Ring. Soooooo, I decided to try a large wood clamp. I opened up the clamp to fit the housing in (don't put it on the stub on bottom, set it off a bit to the side. Put the top on the plastic housing, and gently turn (squeeze) the clamp just to hold the plastic housing in place. Then with both hand on either side, start slowly squeezing, working the O-Ring into the can evenly. Took 1 minute after I employed this approach.